Easy Off for Gun Stock Finish Remover
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OP  | Hello Campfire Crew! I have been looking into refinishing a couple of CZ stocks over the past couple months. I have multiple that appear to be hiding some decently figured walnut underneath the thick factory finish. Through research, I have found and heard of quite a few chemicals and processes that can be used to remove the old, original finish on a stock. I have heard everything from lacquer thinner and tube socks to gel'd methylene chloride. As I continue down this process, I am hoping for some guidance and to read some feedback from y'all on what has worked for you and what has not. While I am not new to woodworking, I am certainly new to the idea of refinishing some rifles stocks. With that said - how would you go about removing the old finish and stain? I appreciate any advice and guidance you can provide! Cheers! |
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 | The first thing I would try is lacquer thinner. If that does it, its going to be fairly easy, just wiping the lacquer thinner on and the finish off. The stain they use will be a different story. Sanding is likely the only way to remove it, but be very careful anywhere the wood meets the metal in a flush fit. You don't want to sand the wood much that would result in the metal being proud to wood. After that, just finish it however you would like it. If lacquer thinner doesn't do, you will need some serious finish stripper which can be quite a mess. |
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| | Going to sound crazy but do it in a blasting cabinet. Done several synthetic and wood stocks in prep for painting using a friends cabinet. He uses black oxide and turns the pressure down so we're not pulverized the wood. Result is lots of media through the nozzle at reasonable pressure and only takes a few minutes to clean a stock. Use a test piece of soft wood to make sure no damage to the stock. Only areas that might need some attention will be the checkering. Give it a good spray with compressed air and wipe with denatured alcohol to remove residue. |
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| | To the 700 owner, good luck. That Remington finish is tough! I don't know of any chemical stripper that phases it. Use a good quality paint/epoxy remover (I use Jasco). Scuff the finish with 80 grit paper before for applying the stripper, it breaks the "surface tension" so to speak and allows the stripper to get into the finish rather than sitting on it. Wrap it in AU foil until softens, then go to work carefully with a plastic scraper. Repeat. It's time consuming and a PITA, but it will come off. I use acetone for a final rinse. Semper Fi FJB on the jackass he rode in on. |
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| | Going to sound crazy but do it in a blasting cabinet. Done several synthetic and wood stocks in prep for painting using a friends cabinet. He uses black oxide and turns the pressure down so we're not pulverized the wood. Result is lots of media through the nozzle at reasonable pressure and only takes a few minutes to clean a stock. Use a test piece of soft wood to make sure no damage to the stock. Only areas that might need some attention will be the checkering. Give it a good spray with compressed air and wipe with denatured alcohol to remove residue. Have a friend that earns a dam good living sand blasting. It's amazing that the same tool he uses to cut script into granite, can Where we cling to our God and Guns. Between Pittsburgh and Philthy. The Alabama part of Pa! |
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| | Use a good quality paint/epoxy remover (I use Jasco). Scuff the finish with 80 grit paper before for applying the stripper, it breaks the "surface tension" so to speak and allows the stripper to get into the finish rather than sitting on it. Wrap it in AU foil until softens, then go to work carefully with a plastic scraper. Repeat. It's time consuming and a PITA, but it will come off. I use acetone for a final rinse. I hate wood stocks with a passion. Good shootin' -Al |
But when I've had to do this, the above method works very well. | | |
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| | There is an old thread on here where member szihn removes a weatherby high gloss finish in minutes. Part of a wager with another member. Scary to watch...but I would follow the method if I were doing it, before using stripper. Stripper sucks and takes too much fiddling. IIRC it was a Browning, but either can be the same... it was a pathetic joke and they refused to show any close-ups of the job. But the tools used are not consistent with competent work on quality items, period. Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA. |
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| | Only did one of the Remington finishes and used epoxy remover from a spray on can. I gave it plenty of time to work and it was messy as heck, but it did the job and took off almost all the finish the first pass. A few small areas needed a second spray but came off right away ... I think I went through about a half roll of paper towels getting it wiped off and cleaning up my mess but the wood looked great after it dried for a day or two... Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability. |
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Source: https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/16970102/how-to-remove-original-finish-on-walnut-rifle-stock
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